Life in an International Community

Now that the World Series and the American mid-term elections are over, let me take some space to tell my stateside readers about my new job.

In truth, it’s not so new any more, since I’m now more than halfway through my first semester of teaching English composition at the American University in Bulgaria. All classes are conducted in English. I have a total of 72 students in three classes, and none of them speak English as their first language. But AUBG is not an ESL school – students are expected on arrival to have sufficient fluency to take classes in English, and professors aren’t supposed to make allowances for difficulty in comprehension.

This is more of a recruiting concern than a teaching one, because all my students, in terms of spoken English, are fluent. As a monolingual American with four years of high school French and Latin, and a passing Californian exposure to Spanish, I find this amazing, in the non-trivial sense of the word. Not only can they speak English well enough to argue with their professors, many of them can compose thoughtful, grammatically clean essays that would earn top grades in the States.

Still, I have to watch out for the odd Americanism. Having little experience with baseball, they can’t be expected to know what a “ballpark figure” is. Idioms such as “preaching to the choir” often require explanation. (This is also true in reverse: there’s a Bulgarian expression meaning “Let’s go,” or “Let’s get out of here,” that translates literally to “Let’s lift the pigeons.”).

It’s a truly international community. Slightly less than half of AUBG’s students, and slightly more than half of mine, are from Bulgaria.  I have students from: Romania, Mongolia, Albania, Serbia, Kosovo, Ukraine, Russia, Kazakhstan, Azerbaijan, Lebanon, and Palestine (Gaza). In the Bulgarian Language and Culture class I’m auditing are three exchange students from the US, as well as students from France, the Netherlands, Greece, Croatia, Papua New Guinea, and China, and a fellow professor from Spain. Other professors I’ve met come from the United Kingdom, Ireland, Kosovo and Lebanon again, Italy, New Zealand, Turkey, Greece again, and Germany. This briefly compiled list includes 26 different countries, and these are just the people I’ve met.

Having lived through the Ottomans, the Nazis, and the Soviet communists, and now casting their lot with the European Union, Bulgarians tend to take a wait-and-see attitude toward world politics. But at AUBG at least, interest in the American election was more than casual. At a recent dinner with half a dozen colleagues, I listened as a professor from Kosovo gave a professor from Bulgaria as clear and succinct an explanation of gerrymandering – now there’s an Americanism for you – as I’ve ever heard. He laid out the mechanisms by which state legislatures separate slices of urban areas so that Democratic voters, in insufficient numbers to form majorities, are divided among Republican-leaning districts. “Len, have you ever lived in the States?” I asked when he finished. He had, for several years, in New York.

Kosovo is one of the new countries carved out of the former Yugoslavia, just to the west of Bulgaria. Former U.S. President Bill Clinton is one of their national heroes, for his intervention in the Balkan conflicts of the 1990s. “He saved us,” my colleague says simply.
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Perhaps what’s most remarkable about AUBG is that students from countries recently (and sometimes currently) in conflict with one another seem to co-exist peacefully in the same classrooms and the same college environment. Why should not the same be true on campuses in the United States, between students with differing political philosophies?

Not that there aren’t arguments. Several students got into a heated discussion about terrorism in one of my recent classes. The same generational, gender, and sexuality issues that drive discussion on American campuses play out here as well. Students sometimes show up to class late, or not at all, and complain about grades. They chafe at rules, and sneak peeks at their cell phones in the back of the classroom.

But the mere act of taking classes in a language that’s not your own is a big step toward understanding. And there’s nothing “mere” about it; I admire my student beyond words, and have told them so. Not all of them are good writers yet. But most adult Americans can’t write one coherent sentence in another language. We want the world to learn English, and the world complies. And yet my students teach me more than I am teaching them.

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The Games We Play, and What they Say about Us

Major League Baseball’s playoff games begin at around three in the morning, Bulgarian time, and as far as I can tell, no one here is paying much attention.

The Red Sox and Yankees are squaring off again. To tell the truth, I’m glad to be away from all the hoopla. Of course, anyone who knows me knows which side I’m on: the side of truth, justice, beauty, long hair and beards. But in the grand scheme of things, does it really matter? No, but that doesn’t stop me from checking the scores when I get out of bed.

I’m especially glad to be missing the American football season. I stopped watching American football – as opposed to real football, the game the rest of the world watches and that we call “soccer” – a long time ago. I stopped watching not because of the protests during the national anthem, but because the game is faux war, and what kind of society regards war as fun, as entertainment, as an ongoing means of addressing world problems?

Though my international students are only passingly familiar with either sport, I ran the late George Carlin’s famous football vs. baseball routine by them, and they appreciated its implications. Carlin made his comedic career by telling the truth in such an unvarnished way that people laughed, because they thought he had to be kidding. His assessment of the two sports is dead on:

“In football, the object is for the quarterback, also known as the field general, to be on target with his aerial assault, riddling the defense by hitting his receivers with deadly accuracy in spite of the blitz, even if he has to use the shotgun. With short bullet passes and long bombs, he marches his troops into enemy territory, balancing this aerial assault with a sustained ground attack that punches holes in the forward wall of the enemy’s defensive line.

In baseball the object is to go home! And to be safe!”

 Europeans, with their history of egomaniacal conquerors, prefer their version of football, the game actually played with the feet. It’s sort of communist, or at least collectivist – it’s hard to imagine a soccer player taking control of a game like a Tom Brady, Bobby Orr, Michael Jordan, or Pedro Martinez. Baseball, in particular, emphasizes the individual. Perhaps that’s why it became our national pastime.

But George Carlin was right. America began to lose its soul when its militaristic version of football supplanted baseball as its most popular sport. The only thing good to come out of American football in recent years is the long-overdue discussion about law enforcement and the mistreatment of minorities, spurred by players taking a knee during the national anthem.

This sort of protest – peaceful, public, provocative – is explicitly protected by the U.S. Constitution. It’s one of the reasons we havea constitution. The right to redress the government for grievances is fundamental to a free society. Communist countries do not allow their citizens to openly display dissatisfaction with the unjust use of official force, but the right to public protest is woven into the fabric of American life. Those who call the kneeling players anti-American are themselves engaging in anti-Americanism.

I love baseball. I appreciate a leaping catch in the outfield or a well-placed sacrifice bunt as much as I do a great song or painting or book. I’m not sure I’m on board with the mass commercialization of professional sports, but I’m glad that the athletes are at long last making as much money as the advertisers.

But I’ve grown weary of watching recent post-seasons. I love baseball for its heroic individual performances: Jack Morris going the distance in a ten-inning shutout in the 1991 World Series, Dave Roberts stealing second base in 2004 when everyone in the ballpark knew he was running, Fernando Valenzuela gutting out a 5-4 victory in 1981 with his team two games down and turning around the whole Series. I’m sick of managers pulling their starters when they get into trouble in the third inning. If I wanted to watch a faceless, collectivist battle of attrition, I’d turn on a European football match.

Funny thing, though – I’ve watched some European football lately, and found myself enjoying it. Fans call it “the beautiful game.” And there is something sublime about watching a group of people work patiently toward a goal that is difficult to achieve. Like, say, world peace, racial and gender equality, that sort of thing. It’s only a game, of course, but the games people play say something about their dreams.

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Do this, don’t do that, can’t you read the sign?

One benefit of my new job at the American University in Bulgaria is that I get to take a course in the Bulgarian language and culture for free, on a pass/fail basis. While I might pass the course, I’ll never pass for a speaker of Bulgarian. But I have learned a few things already.

Bulgarian belongs to the family of Slavic languages, which includes Russian and Polish and Serbian and Croatian, among others. Some countries use the Cyrillic alphabet, as Bulgaria does, and some of them use our familiar Latin alphabet. Often, it’s the politicians, not the people, who decide which one to use. Some Bulgarians favor switching to the Latin alphabet, because they think it will hasten the country’s assimilation into the European Union, of which the country has been a member since 2007. But the Greeks are still using their ancient alphabet (from which the word “alphabet” is, of course, derived). I think they are alone in the world in using it.

Since the Cyrillic alphabet was invented in Bulgaria (though Russians like to claim they expanded and improved upon it), national pride will likely keep it in use for the foreseeable future. But it might explain why the names of the streets on the signs in Blagoevgrad are in both alphabets.

The nice thing about the Cyrillic alphabet, and the Bulgarian language, is that it’s completely phonetic. Each letter is pronounced, and each letter has one, and only one, pronunciation. It makes sounding out the unfamiliar words a little but easier. I’ve been walking the streets doing exactly that. I haven’t memorized all the letters yet, but I’ve got most of them. As for what the words mean… well, that will take a bit more time. But I’ve managed to learn a few, enough to buy tomatoes and cheese and other goods at the farmers market, and to make simple monetary transactions.

Bulgaria is bordered on the west by Serbia and a country that calls itself Macedonia, which irks their Greek neighbors. When the former Yugoslavia broke up into separate nations, each nation took pains to differentiate itself from the others.  The Serbs and Croats, for instance, spoke in tongues so similar that they were considered dialects of the same language. But the Croatian government commissioned a group of linguists to invent new words for things like “passport.” There is a whole list of new Croatian words, invented by some committee to make Croatian a separate language from Serbian. A funny observation was shared with me: when they are abroad, Serbs and Croats are brothers and sisters with a common language: Serbo-Croatian. Only at home do they squabble over the differences.

My first weeks here have given me the tiniest glimpse into what the immigrant experience in America must be like. Every time I step out my door, I’m reminded that I’m a foreigner. And it’s not just the language. How do you behave at a restaurant, or in a line at the store? What’s the proper etiquette for greeting someone, or asking for help?

 When I overhear someone speaking English, it’s like a lifeline: someone I can ask question, and get an intelligible answer. Is it any wonder that immigrants in the United States tend to seek each other out, and stick together?

I’m newly sensitive to what immigrants must feel when some of my compatriots criticize them for failing to “assimilate.” You’re in a strange land where everything is alien to you, and you’re supposed to find a place to live, feed your family, get a job. You don’t know whether your electricity and heat are covered in the cost of your new home, because you can’t read a rental agreement. You can’t read the labels at the store, so you only buy food you recognize. You rely on your fellow immigrants for the few work opportunities that are available to you.

Assimilate? I could live here for the rest of my life and not be fully assimilated into Bulgarian society. Should we not assume the same is true of immigrants to the U.S. from Somalia, or Southeast Asia, or Latin America? Yet some Americans would deny them access to basic services in their own language.

How realistic is it to expect non-natives to immediately adopt English as the language of their day-to-day commerce? More to the point, why shouldthey? Many of us are descended from Anglo-Saxons, but it’s only an accident of history that English speakers colonized what is now the United States. Why shouldn’tpeople speak Spanish in places named Los Angeles and El Paso, or French in Calais and Montpelier, or Greek in Philadelphia and Athens, Georgia?

Instead of berating them, perhaps we should listen. We might learn something.

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